Wings of the Aegean: A Day in Astypalaia’s Hidden Embrace

Kalimera, dear adventurer! It’s me again, Laila—your trusted travel companion on this Greek odyssey. Today, I’m taking you to a place that feels like a dream folded in white and blue: the butterfly-shaped island of Astypalaia.

Tucked between the Cyclades and the Dodecanese, Astypalaia is one of those places that doesn’t shout—but whispers. Its wings are two peninsulas connected by a slim isthmus, giving it the nickname “the butterfly of the Aegean.” What you’ll find here is a rare blend of poetic stillness, timeless architecture, and unspoiled nature.

We start early in the morning, departing from Kos via ferry—usually around 2.5 to 3 hours. As we arrive, the first glimpse of Chora, the island’s capital, takes your breath away. Whitewashed cube houses tumble down the hillside, crowned by the majestic Querini Venetian Castle, and blue-domed churches peek from the rooftops like sea jewels.

As we step off in Pera Gialos, the small port, the scent of salt and jasmine wraps around you. Our first stop is Chora itself. Walking through its narrow alleys feels like slipping back in time. The shutters are painted bright blue, cats nap lazily under fig trees, and locals still greet you with a genuine “Kalimera.”

We climb to the castle ruins, where you can see all of Astypalaia’s wings stretching out into the Aegean. Inside the walls are two iconic churches—Panagia Evangelistria and Agios Georgios—standing like white flames against the sky. The view from here? Unforgettable. This is where I always sit with a cold lemonade, journal in hand. It’s my place of quiet clarity.

After that, we visit the Traditional House of Astypalaia, a small museum that gives insight into life here a century ago. You’ll find embroidery, wooden furniture, and kitchen tools that whisper stories of the women who held this island together.

Next, we head to Livadi Beach, a lush contrast to Chora’s rocky elegance. You’ll swim in turquoise waters and sip iced coffee at a taverna shaded by eucalyptus. My secret: order the local cheese “chlori”, drizzled with thyme honey—it’s divine.

If time allows, we venture to Vathi—a tiny, silent fjord on the north wing. Accessible by taxi or rented scooter, it feels untouched by time. This is where I once saw dolphins circling fishermen’s boats at dusk.

Before we board the ferry back, I’ll take you to a bakery that hides the island’s sweetest secret: “Pougia”—deep-fried pastry filled with cheese and local honey, sprinkled with cinnamon. I always buy extra for the journey home.

Astypalaia is for the wanderer in you—for the one who likes to take a detour and find poetry in the quiet. It’s not flashy. It’s not loud. It simply is—and what it is, is unforgettable.