Kalimera, adventurer! It’s me, Laila—and today I’m handing you the keys to one of the most exhilarating ways to explore one of Greece’s most extraordinary islands: by buggy on volcanic Nisyros. Yes, you heard right. Dust in your hair, wind on your face, and the open road calling—this is going to be an unforgettable ride.
We begin our day early at Kardamena Port on Kos, where we hop on the ferry to Nisyros. The boat ride alone is worth the journey. As you leave Kos behind, the Dodecanese sea opens wide in front of you. After about 50 minutes, the rugged cliffs of Mandraki, Nisyros’s main town, appear—perched dramatically like a theatre stage carved into volcanic rock.
When we land, our buggies are waiting. They’re easy to handle (trust me, even if it’s your first time) and absolutely perfect for tackling Nisyros’s narrow roads, hill climbs, and off-the-beaten-path tracks. After a quick safety briefing and route overview, we’re off!
First stop? The legendary Stefanos Crater—one of the largest active hydrothermal craters in the world that you can actually walk into. Driving up through winding switchbacks and sulfur-scented breezes, you feel the landscape changing: barren, almost lunar. We park at the top, and I’ll lead you down into the crater basin itself. The ground feels warm beneath your feet, and if you listen closely, you’ll hear faint hissing from the earth. This place feels alive.
My secret tip here: bring a damp scarf or a bandana—you can use it to mask the sulphur smell (which can be intense!), and it adds a little mystique to your crater selfie. Also, wear closed shoes—the terrain is dusty and cracked like a dragon’s skin.
After our volcanic adventure, we cruise up to Nikia, a tiny mountain village with a panoramic view directly into the crater. Its mosaic-tiled square, “Porta,” is one of the most beautiful in Greece. We stop here for fresh lemonade and homemade galaktoboureko (custard pie)—a Laila favorite.
Next, we buggy off-road (oh yes, you’re getting dusty now!) toward Emborios, a semi-abandoned village making a slow, artistic comeback. Stone houses, wind-blasted ruins, and creative souls—there’s something romantic about the way time hangs in the air here.
We return to Mandraki by late afternoon. If you’re up for a final stop, we’ll visit Panagia Spiliani Monastery, perched high on volcanic cliffs. The cave chapel is carved right into the mountain—cool and quiet inside. I always light a candle here for gratitude before heading home.
Before boarding the ferry, we’ve earned our dinner. My spot? A little fish tavern near the port, run by two sisters. Try the grilled octopus with fava, and ask for the house rakomelo—hot raki with honey and spices. Cheers to an epic day.
Nisyros is not just about walking a volcano—it’s about feeling the raw energy of the island with every twist of the throttle and every cloud of dust.
If you love freedom, nature, and a little thrill, this is your ride.
